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[Watch home watch cultural] In 1927, Rolex did a surprising thing: publish first truly suitable for everyday wear waterproof watch.

This watch is waterproof policy applied earlier to try very different from other companies, but the visual and tactile no exception.

Experienced Rolex enthusiasts may have realized that it is just mentioned historic game changer: the first generation of Rolex Oyster watch.

In 1927, dating back over 89 years.

However markings on the watch tells us its age but also gift one year old.

Yes, that in October 1927, the famous British swimmer Mercedes Edith · Ji Lisi (Mercedes Gleitze) wearing a Rolex Oyster watch successfully crossed the English Channel.

But in fact, as early as 1926, Oyster ideas and prototypes had come out.

While this prototype shown in Table paper with pictures of mackerel is now back year.

In such an anniversary, Oyster on what, why and how, to go into many details worth exploring.

Hans Wilsdorf (Hans Wilsdorf), founder of Rolex, has never been a watchmaker.

In all legal documents, he gave his occupation is defined as “businessman” (merchant), that is engaged in the trading of people.

It is important to understand, because fifty years at the helm of the company, Hans Wilsdorf, the Rolex watch does not like independent now, more precisely, Rolex watch just assembled.

Movement from one vendor sourcing, procurement case from another vendor, dial, chain belt and other components as well.

Hans Wilsdorf Bing natural talent, insight into the business opportunities, find gaps in the market, and the Rolex as a guide, always assemble something special.

Now, we call Hans Wilsdorf as a marketing genius, Rolex Oyster’s story is a perfect example.

Rolex – Mercedes Edith · Ji Lisi (Mercedes Gleitze) Poster Trench warfare of World War I proved a pocket watch compared to the advantages, it is one of the first manufacturers to profit from Rolex.

But in the next months and years, not without complaining civilian users watch: First, do not feel old pocket watch precision; the second is fat clogged with dust, or water outage due to the movement, compared to the watch pocket watch, repairs more often.

The first question can be expected, because the smaller the movement means less balance wheel.

As amended buyers prejudice, Hans Wilsdorf try to watch while stocks Switzerland and the United Kingdom straightening laboratory tests to prove its accuracy.

This practice continued until now, and now, Rolex is COSC-certified chronometer with the largest number of brands.

The second problem more difficult to solve compared, although to prevent intrusion of dust and water, there have been many attempts.

For example, in Victorian times, watch winding crown explorers use are equipped with waterproof screw-cap, is connected to the case through the chain.

This system is very clumsy, winding crown must be small enough to adapt to the waterproof cap (incidentally, in the 1990s, vintage Cartier Pasha in this design series).

Waterproof case, with a screw-back, crown and ring The early 1920s, attempts to waterproof watch on a production of “tightness” (hermetic) watch, the method is based on the second shell wrapped the entire gold watch.

When winding or calibration required, it loosened bezel will take out the entire gold watch.

Case mostly made of gold and silver, there are two main problems with this design.

Gold and silver is soft, daily repeated tightening and loosening threaded bezel will make subject to wear.

Thread wear, the watch is no longer watertight; bezel wear, and think it becomes difficult to let go.

Careful readers may have noticed, the focus of the two early attempts have focused on the protection of the crown.

The crown is the most obvious dirt and moisture ingress point, we need solutions that securely latched crown, lends itself waterproof.

May 1926, the pace of fate quietly.

Hans Wilsdorf browsing habits Swiss Patent Register, which can be used to pick entry, code 114 948 to fit this definition.

In La Chaux de Fonds, Paul Perregaux and Georges Peret designed a crown waterproofing system, which is screwed onto the case protruding coils.

The crown in the normal position, without having to be bound by the waterproof cap and a second layer of the case, easy to use, and easier access to sales success.

Hans Wilsdorf lost no time acquired patents, only a few months, Rolex Oyster watch officially listed.

The above is a recognized history, recent research findings make this history more refined.

In 2010, the watch historian David Boettcher published an article in the American Clock and Watch Association of Collectors (NAWCC) announcement.

The article points out, July 19, 1926, the first patent assigned to a man named Charles Rodolphe Spillmann, he sealed owns a manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de case.

Five days later, Spillmann patent in turn transferred to the Hans Wilsdorf (Interestingly, not directly transferred to Rolex).

And then five days later, July 29, Hans Wilsdorf registered “Oyster” (Oyster) trademark.

So far, the case, crown and names, all the elements are in place.

I believe Spillmann by no means simple, to help Hans Wilsdorf hidden the middleman patent interests.

More likely scenario is, Spillmann patent brought before Hans Wilsdorf, to explain to him how to combine the crown and case, designed to create a revolutionary waterproof watch.

Although there is no clear evidence, but if you look closely caseback 1926 Oyster prototype table shown in the figure, you will find a small flag at the bottom of the hammer.

This case is a sign of Swiss manufacturers, which number is 136, suggesting While this case by the La Chaux de Fonds in C.


Spillmann & Cie production.

All the early gold shell Rolex Oyster watch, almost all have this engraved mark, indicating that these are made Spillmann case of factory manager alone.

Inside the bottom cover screw- Table flag cover bottom side of a small hammer, While the display case by C.


Spillmann & Cie, numeral 136 is clearly visible Original Oyster case design is very interesting, it is not directly connected with the housing movement.

The case consists of three separate components: the frame (Schedule ear), the bezel and case back.

Bezel and the case back screwed design are used.

Movement, the dial and hands metal spiral tube externally threaded carrier, leaving a hole 3 o’clock position, 9 o’clock position with the plug pin.

Metal spiral tube into the housing, the bolt pin 9 o’clock exactly inserted into the housing reserved holes, winding stem and crown is fitted through the holes of the three o’clock position to the housing.

Finally, the bezel and then rotating back after locking.

That time Rolex watch waterproof trumpeted do not use cork or leather washers, spin rely only metal to metal contact; this statement is true, however, in order to ensure a perfect seal, watch or use the washer in the back after , the washer made of a thin lead sheet deformation occurs when fastened to the bottom cover of the compensated mixed processing variations.

Case appearance of “pincushion” (cushion), began in the 1920s, Rolex for “pincushion” case of use until after World War II.

Oyster has also launched an alternative octagonal case, but was not as successful as the popular “pincushion.

” Less than a decade, octagonal-shaped case disappeared from the product catalog Rolex, the most likely cause appears to be too old-fashioned.

Not so popular octagonal-shaped case All with the same period as the Rolex watch, Oyster watch equipped with movement supplied by Bill Aegler movement factory.

This unique movement is called “10½ Hunter”: 10½ fractionation (23.

7 mm) diameter is movement; “Hunter” refers watch design layout, i.


as Hunter Pocket (mirror with a protective cover), crown at 3 o’clock position, as opposed to the crown at the 12 o’clock position of the open pocket.

Movement is divided into three versions: Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima.

15 is caught three stone structure, be identified by counting the completion of the test after assembly.

One of the very best performance for Ultra Prima, Prima will not be so precise, and Extra Prima somewhere in between.

Ultra Prima mounted watch movement, indicated generally disk corresponding text, as shown in FIG.

Ultra Prima watch movement equipped with disk label accompanying text By the mid 1930s, Rolex complex three-piece case simplified to two-part, the bezel integrated into the housing, while the metal carrier movement abandoned spin cartridge.

Spillmann seems to have disappeared from the Oyster’s story, however, is not the case.

In the 1960s, we can see “C.



” the initials in the bottom cover Rolex chronograph, this relationship lasted nearly 20 years.

“Pincushion” Case production certainly does not end.

The late 1930s, Rolex also created a number of large models Case is an Italian brand.

Yes, that was not how it is well-known Italian brand Panerai.

In addition to the 1940s watch larger diameter, the basic design of the Oyster case has remained consistent and stable.

Until the 1950s, the new case and come out with the crown, the crown is called “Twinlock” (double lock).

As the name suggests, crown with double gasket to ensure water tightness.

The initial water depth up to 50 meters, which is a real breakthrough in terms of seepage of the case.

Oyster movement of prototypes mounted Ultra Prima In 1953, Rolex also introduced a two-piece case is equipped with a rotatable bezel.

In this case the first watch model is Ref 6202 Turn-O-Graph, with inlay bezel, printed a 60-minute mark.

As an alternative paragraph waterproof chronograph launch market Ref 6202 Turn-O-Graph untold success, but it has become the most iconic Rolex basis (one) model Submariner (Submariner) of.

September 1953, Swiss explorer Jacques Piccard in the bathyscaphe 3131.

8 meters in the sea, a special Rolex watch attached to the hull still working properly.

On the next spring Basel International Watch and Jewelery Show, Rolex Submariner watches officially come out.

Over the years, the case and the crown of parallel development has continued, which is evident in the Sea-century (Sea Dweller) 60 years of diving and 2008 (Deepsea) watch.

In the dive watch, the Rolex 60 years abandoned the use of two-piece case and instead revert to the original Oyster design.

It turns out that mackerel in the back of the old design can meet the performance needs of the 21st century.

Sometimes, progress may mean back to square one.

(Map / text watch home Xu Chaoyang)

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