Temptation of street art: how to change the street culture of Swiss watchmaking

2021 has come, I believe many people feel the same, this 2020 flies.

In 2020, in the history of mankind, it is bound to be a special year for the entire watch industry, as well.

This issue topic, I come to share with you this year, “play table” experience, the following entry to the topic.

The impact of the epidemic industry “Epidemic” is bound to be all the “Annual Summary” is not open around the topic, for the impact of the watch industry, I think there are three points.

First, as a major exporter of Swiss watchmaking, the most direct impact is the “downtime”, whether Patek Philippe, Rolex or, downtime not only need to take a lot of labor costs, production schedules will be greatly affected.

Watches and clocks, unlike cars, automobile manufacturing plant was shut down for two months, as long as coordinate the supply chain, you can put to work overtime production to make up.

The manufacture of watches, especially high-end watchmaking, is the need for a large number of workers involved, not open enough to the machine will be able to solve the problem, it is natural for the production of the most direct impact.

Production, has become the main tone of the Swiss watch industry in 2020.

Whether it is sales or total sales, the Swiss watch industry in recent years “downhill” foregone conclusion.

Second, in this past year, the luxury “price” of the news from time to time there will be one.

Whether it is from the traditional Louis Vuitton, Chanel, or Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Omega, IWC IWC, Longines, each time the gains are not small, but the prices are more than once.

In this behind price increases, in fact, also shows a lot of problems, for example, the current purchasing power of money decreases, in order to increase the price of traditional luxury goods are a way to show their position, in order to ensure the Group’s profit after production in order to increase the unit price, consumers for brands such as excessive pursuit.

This is the reason which, in fact, is not difficult to scrutiny, luxury itself comes with a “high premium” label properties, different from general merchandise, there is not much “at all cost” price changes are all choice of the market, which is actually also implies the Chinese consumers “to buy or not buy up” consumer psychology.

Third, the watch industry, “Matthew” increasingly apparent.

“Matthew Effect” Simply put, “the strong stronger and the weak weaker,” the phenomenon.

In the watch industry is easier to understand, the top luxury brands, Patek Philippe Nautilus series, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is still popular in the popular “entry level” of the steel section in the secondary market have reached a record high bit, although there will be some price “shock”, but overall, super premium still exists objectively.

Ordinary consumers want to buy popular models in the primary market, it is extremely difficult to do, which is to be directly competing products, it can be considered a “good news.

” In contrast with a top luxury brand Vacheron Constantin, partial sporty Thief series is also an overall tightening of the preferential market price, the public price of waiting become the norm, on the whole, fairly good buy.

Thief series of fare increases, although the situation did not occur, but the official price continue to rise, but also directly increase the cost of purchase Table Table faithful.

Rolex topic, not to mention, you know, is still hot money “a tying, two increase” routine.

Diving watch is still the main watch the entire watch industry, Omega 300 meters of the hippocampus, Tudor 1958 Type of Bristol Bay, Longines Conquest also has a fairly high degree of concern.

It is worth mentioning that 2020 is the 55th anniversary of the launch of Seiko dive watch, the brand also introduced a number of commemorative watch, diving watch for those who like Japanese fans, is also a good time to start collection.

In fact, we also find in the domestic watch market awareness and sales is almost equated, low brand awareness, sales naturally have sent.

This is not good to do some marketing, or late into the Chinese watch brand, there is no mass base of support, the living space is even harder.

As a “luxury” positioning of the watch, the brand is a very important factor, and we “know” the brand had a few.

Over time, the “Matthew Effect” becomes more apparent.

Trends “new luxury retail,” the “The new luxury retail” This is a concept first proposed by our team, in the traditional impression, it should be beautifully decorated luxury boutique store sales.

Boutique shop, there are wearing exquisite service personnel can also enjoy the luxury brands should have distinguished service, this should be a reflection of the line advanced services.

“The new luxury retail” nature is different from the traditional luxury goods to “store” type of sales service model.

Even this year, did not suffer the epidemic, Chinese consumers have increasingly turned to online.

You can buy things through the network more and more, increasingly high value, the traditional luxury goods, luggage, clothing, shoes, accessories, watches, jewelry, etc.

, can stand in network marketing, it It became a natural thing.

As early as 2018, the Richemont luxury goods business platform Yoox Net-A-Porter (referred to as “YNAP”) and Alibaba Group joint venture, and settled Lynx luxury goods exclusive platform Luxury Pavilion, for the Chinese consumer market bring a new luxury shopping experience.

Time to 2020, Richemont, Cartier, Montblanc, IWC IWC, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai such as a public well-known watch brands have settled Lynx, opened the official flagship store brand.

On the watch area, the Richemont Group’s main brand watches, Lange also may not “on the Lynx sell,” even a relatively small minority of the famous table, but also “NET-A-PORTER official flagship store “sale.

In addition to the shop settled, Richemont also make good use of new marketing positions.

Originally scheduled for 2020 April 25 to 29 in Geneva, Switzerland, organized by the Geneva watch and wonder exhibition, it has been the first all-digital transformation, the depth of cooperation Lynx luxury goods, based on NET-A-PORTER Lynx official flagship store, for the first time held watches & wonders x Lynx luxury goods “Exhibition on the table and watch the miracle-Lynx cloud.

” Richemont’s main watch brands have released new products in 2020, this “table show the cloud,” which is also a world-class innovation Watch Fair.

In addition to “table show the cloud”, we can also see some special watches have adopted “online channel” for the country starting, only be able to purchase these watches through a designated “the online channel.

” For example, IWC IWC Portuguese Chronograph new green plate, IWC IWC Pilot’s Chronograph “Orange Storm” special edition, limited edition Panerai watch the new sneak series AZZURRO 42 mm PAM01209, are more interesting watches.

That year played what “interesting” watch? Talking about “interesting” watch, certainly not those all day green water ghost, panda Di and other such “fair average quality” online discussion.

The following photos are real shot, photographed by me left, along with the most intuitive experience to get started.

1, Hiroshi Fujiwara joint: Tiger Fragment Design TAG Heuer chronograph joint funds Follow the “joint Hiroshi Fujiwara will fire,” the true law of incense, which watches F1 series based on build, 44 mm stainless steel case, black ceramic ring with a scale, a standard “double small-cap” chronograph design, six position of the clock there is a small calendar window at 12 o’clock there Fragment Design classic “double lightning logo”, equipped with homemade Heuer 02 Tiger TAG Heuer automatic movement with a power reserve of 80 hours.

Pure red, white, black color, fashion trends and the passion for racing integration, the achievements of different cross-border classics.

The watch bracelet by the Fujiwara personally involved in the design, finely polished bracelet with a matte process, wearing comfort.

Red on the back of a transparent bottom cover, also printed with “double lightning logo”.

This watch last year TAG Heuer Tiger Lynx official flagship store on sale before, and now also been unable to buy, the world’s limited 500, the public price of 45,600 yuan.

2, the most beautiful panda disk: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak self-winding chronograph 26331ST At the beginning of last year, when I wrote “Waiting prices only regret? Has 210 000 26331 Audemars Piguet is also worth buying it?” The article, in the amount of reading watch House single platform to more than 300,000 .

I also received a privately recognized by many fans, even friends also discouraging part of the table you want to buy this watch.

In fact 26331ST advantages and disadvantages are obvious, and Yan brand value naturally the biggest selling point of this watch, the most beautiful panda disc is not for nothing, but also Luhan same paragraph.

Shortcoming, this watch is the use of non-self-produced movement Audemars Piguet, it is dense end of the design.

In my opinion, Audemars Piguet brand essence is mainly a unique design and fine polished movement.

As a top brand watches and official price has more than 200,000, and even the movement could not see, but also a steel table, does have some regrets.

3, WW tables show table king: Vacheron Constantin craftsmen attic Grande Complication astronomical timekeeping “music of the song” watch In 2020, the “watch and wonder (Watches & Wonders)” Watch Fair first came to China, the first table exhibition stand in line Shanghai Bank Arts Center.

As the tables show next to Richemont led line, Richemont Group’s main brand Vacheron Constantin, Lange, Cartier, IWC IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Parmigiani, Luo Jiedu He, Piaget , Baume & Mercier and so full debut, many watches have also been the country starting.

Which, WW tables show the king’s table was undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin craftsmen attic Grande Complication astronomical timekeeping “music of the song” watch (Model: 6620C / 000R-B656), the world’s only this one, priced at nearly 20 million yuan.

Which watch a table diameter 45mm 18K 5N pink gold, the thickness of only 12.

54 mm.

With a sky map adjustment buttons on the case, the minute repeater slide bar located at the center side of the case, the unique double-sided dial, the new 1731 M820 movement equipped with 19 complex functions, in addition to three repeater gear train structure, there are three when the independent wheel drive train are standard display when the sun and stars.

The outstanding works will be 600 parts assembled in less than 8 mm thick slim movement, continuing the tradition of the brand to create ultra-thin movement.

The actual results to use, even the “+ noble metal complex + ultra large-diameter table”, and also without any heavy feeling.

Galaxy the back, the ecliptic, and track celestial equator FIG northern hemisphere transparent sky, people even in the daytime, it is possible to meet the stars dream universe.

4, thousands of custom tables: Swatch Swatch X You can dream Po joint wristwatch If you feel that tens of millions of “big table” distance too far, then the end of last year and Swatch treasure can dream jointly launched a customized watch, it is relatively close to the people a choice.

In the Swatch Lynx official flagship store, you can enjoy custom canvas, custom movement, customized printing services, plus lovely “Elf Ball” box, as long as the price of 1,000 yuan for treasure like me fans can dream, the first time you start a piece.

From custom to receipt of the box, a total of four days of fun, “four days of joy” Overall still very worth it.

While this custom watch, case, silicone strap plastic, very lightweight.

41mm diameter dial, a needle clasp buckle, strap patterns, such as ink-jet printing up, due to the white background, and even in some cases a “color overflow”.

No wonder there are users send “This table is the value of 50,” sighs.

In my daily life, whether it is work, leisure, entertainment, sports, vacation, in addition to participate in the activities of the Swatch brand may wear the watch, we could not find suitable for wearing this watch the scene, which is more awkward place.

Here, we also hope that, as the Swiss Swatch Group’s big brands, in terms of work or to watch doing something, otherwise there would be no repeat customers.

5, annual favorite table: Vacheron Constantin Thief series Loudiao ultra-thin perpetual calendar watch This watch won the 2020 GPHG Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie best calendar and astronomical tables award, also won the “Pointer Speed” best complicated watch 2020 year, at its essence lies in the use of home-made brand 1120 QPSQ self-winding movement, capable of binding While the thickness of only 4.

05 mm thin and hollow movement perfect process, which is an extremely complex task.

The world can master this skill door is a handful of brand, Vacheron Constantin is one of them.

The watch’s overall thickness of only 8.

1 mm, Thief series as representatives of Vacheron Constantin elegant movement, can be complicated flagship thickness control to watch so perfect, this is the other traditional sports watch that can not be compared.

Even the whole precious metal case and bracelet, the actual feeling to get started and no heavy feeling, and this is contrary to the traditional image.

Under normal room light, this watch is the reflection of the sunlight, but also full of layering, so that the color of the case and bracelet are no longer static.

Used to seeing Thief steel bracelet, and now uses 18K 5N pink gold material, is another luxury feel.

Original still equipped with three strap for different occasions, to accompany you to a Thief.

Purists “Nautilus and Land Rover.

” Last year, I wrote a “Patek Philippe: Nautilus Nautilus is the time in the field of Land Rover,” the article, in the amount of reading watch a family of more than 200,000, also a lot of comments this article, the main controversy also parrot Lo and Land Rover should not be put together and talk.

It is such a controversy, in fact, not difficult to understand.

Nautilus in the current status of the watch industry, it is the undisputed “king of steel”, but also a lot of dreams watch list Friends.

The current Land Rover, the terminal is a starting price of only 20 million, has a joint venture and Chery-made niche luxury brand, and occasionally broke some quality problems.

Proposed “Nautilus Nautilus is the time in the field of Land Rover” point of view, it is not my original, but Patek Philippe official said.

This view from the “Patek Philippe biography”, which is 2019 to commemorate the Patek Philippe brand was founded 180 anniversary of the launch of the brand official biography, in Patek Philippe’s official website is also related to the introduction, and also launched a limited edition Chinese edition, this thick books official price of nearly 2000 yuan.

I believe the vast majority of the Friends of the table did not read the book, do not agree this view, it is not surprising.

Last year, I just start with this one, “Patek Philippe biography,” read the Nautilus relevant sections when there is a such a description, “For Patek Philippe is, Nautilus is not only a new watch, but also represent a new concept.

It the birth and the time just Land Rover (range Rover) car quite.

we will therefore treated as family time in the field Nautilus Land Rover luxury sport waterproof sports watch and luxury SUV complement each other.

Although it is not a diving watch, our goal is to make it waterproof performance of 80 meters to 90 meters.

” As a hybrid car circle more than a decade of “old driver” who see this description, was quite amazing.

However, review of Nautilus born in the 1970s, that was the most luxurious Range Rover all-terrain off-road SUV, and created a precedent for large-scale all-terrain luxury SUV, leading to the highest standards in the field of all-terrain luxury SUV.

The Nautilus, and then is a mainstream aesthetic values ​​and conflicting steel table, rather than the current “favorite.

” Patek Philippe his own steel table a new motion seen as Land Rover, at the time of the background, is reasonable.

Further still, hot Nautilus also the nearest couple of years now, for a limited Nautilus 40 years of history, most of the time are less popular, the future is difficult to say whether the continued hot, no need to be too myth.

“Play list” mentality and attitude When you start to “play list”, you will find that these century-old watch brand, have a common characteristic, that is has its own unique “moral character.

” Patek Philippe Take mentioned above, in the “Patek Philippe biography” in, it took a lot of space describing the brand inception of a variety of easy, how to weather the crisis and difficulties, how to open up the market.

Than the Patek Philippe historic watch brand, there are many, why now Patek Philippe to become “king of the table,” which has always been a ready-made “success”, it is like watches friends to study and learn the fun and harvest it the more valuable.

Look like Hublot, Richard Mill such “waves brand”, history is not long, even in the “century-old” in front worth mentioning.

But who these brands, we also can learn how to make the brand to achieve corner overtaking rule, such as spokesmen, marketing, innovation and other materials are very interesting stories.

Each brand has its own unique charm, high and low price, but the value for everyone, that is, vary.

He like is the most important, after all, the table is wearing his own play.

About whether hedge, this is actually not with excessive care, Throughout the watch market, 99.

99% of the watch will not add value to those “big hot money”, the counter will not be sold to the public price of ordinary consumers, the general public fantasy.

” VIP treatment “, and then complain that it is not necessary.

Apply a senior watch collectors exact words, “inappropriate leek, how to become VIP?” Under carefully understand, is not it? In our values, the “play” and the “wearing a watch” has always been two different things, but also the two groups.

Our readers, not all senior watch collectors.

Readers on the level of the collectors, they have their own understanding of the watch will also put forward a number of constructive comments and ideas in our content.

For these readers, we are also very welcome, but also allows us a more specialized content in the future.

More readers, are ordinary table friends.

Mostly at some stage of life, such as marriage, a successful career, a little spare cash, etc.

, they do not need to collect the watch, only need to select a watch can be worn daily to treat yourself.

These readers do not like us have the time to “watch all day” to see that “people do not say the words,” the PR News is issued apparently to no avail, that will need to be pragmatic ideas and content.

For example, in 2020 it had an almost all media are shouting “buy buy buy” Omega “Speedmaster Snoopy.

” I would not recommend to buy the novice, especially concern us, “Pointer Speed” column of the table Ordinary Friends of the purchase.

The reason is very simple, it is almost always a watch chain on hand every day to spend time each day to wait on the watch.

Are people playing table, or table play people, this fundamental issue is the need to figure out.

70,000 yuan more than the official price for the Friends ordinary table, not a small sum, this budget is likely to buy everyday wear the watch.

Unless Snoopy lunar tables or preference, this “super Snoopy” is not in line with the needs of ordinary table of friends.

Questions about preservation and value-added, this “super Snoopy” is not limited, is also a big problem.

Plus one of the main secondary market, “Moon Watch” does not hedge, and the prices of almost all basic models cut, the price of which is equipped with a manual winding decided not to hedge against inflation.

If the mentality of “speculation” and buy “Snoopy Speedmaster” watch as the “financial products” totally unnecessary.

Even if the situation encountered on the dynasties limited edition “value added” in the secondary market also will “have no market price” of the situation.

Friends as an ordinary table, a general lack of understanding of market channels, blindly hearsay, it is easy to set into a number of interest groups.

In short, do not give a “novice” recommendation on manual winding watch, it is one of the most fundamental values ​​of our team.

If you wanted to “speculate” as soon as we are concerned, “Pointer speed” column, and listening to our words, we should now be on the “happy flower” was.

We mentioned in last year’s “Speedmaster Snoopy,” the article, “There is this thought, not as heavily loaded as soon as Tesla, how much more fragrant?.

” This team is based on our deep automotive industry professional advice after more than a decade, it is not a “joke.

” This year, 2020, Tesla shares up hundreds of times, for listening to our opinion, to achieve financial freedom of Friends of the table, let’s just say the word, “No thanks!” Written in the last 2020 has been in the past, in the past year, we have met a lot of new friends, just more than six thousand words, and can not fully reflect all the “play list” in the last year.

2021, our “play list” of the road will continue, and we hope that we share not just watch a series of depth itself, more historical stories behind the major watch brands, marketing strategy, marketing analysis, etc.


I believe this to people engaged in enterprise management work, it can also bring some of the ideas and knowledge of the times.

Finally, we want to say is, we do not want to “watch” as a tool to show off wealth, whether Seiko Casio, Rolex or Audemars Piguet, we hope that we can find the most suitable for their own “Moods choice.

” “Play list”, you happy most important! (Text / Qiu Xiao Cheng)

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