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– Tell me if you feel compelled to Harry Winston for the promotion of brand Urwerk? – Probably, Harry Winston has helped me to move to a new, higher level.
I learned about the world, and that’s fine.
But also won a lot of HW from our cooperation: management companies have repeatedly told me that many connoisseurs and collectors consider my Opus, the best in the entire series.
So that the benefit was mutual, I believe.
– What do you say about Opus 8? Like the idea of Frederic Garin? – I only saw a small photo of the eight and heard a few comments about it.
They say, for it is very difficult to determine the time due to poor readability of the dial.
Funny, of course, the idea, but having more to do with art without defining the hour.
The one who takes the time to come up with an alternative system of indicators, it is important to remember that his first task – to make this readable system.
If the clock is functional – apart from the fact that they should be comfortable and beautiful – they will always be in demand.
Otherwise, they will lose relevance, as any bright phenomenon of fashion, and the owner will sooner or later cease to wear them.
– But it is assumed that an expensive watch functionality is not really needed – important emotions they create .
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– Emotions are fine, but too ephemeral.
Yes, you can not check the time on wrist watch, wear them for beauty – but you need to know that, if need be, you can quickly and accurately read tsiferblatnye data.
Poorly readable copies graduate from his active life in winding caskets and vaults and are transformed into sculptures, decorative ornaments, the interior details – call it what you want.
It is an indisputable fact.
And I’m not saying it’s bad – it’s wonderful.
Art is boundless, it will be a place around.
– You’re not going to try his hand in pure aesthetics, completely devoid of applied knowledge? – No, I am not going.
Chronometric sculptures like De Witt WX-1 – not our way.
– What about the increase in circulation? – Last year, we released 220 copies of the plan to make 250, next add some more .
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We only have 10 people, there is not particularly razverneshsya (smiles).
– What mechanisms do you use as a baseline, and why not make your own base? You also can do it.
– The UR 103 worth modified Peseux 7001.
This interesting mechanism, designed in the style of 60-70-ies of the last century, I really like.
The 202nd used Sowind 3100.
And he and the other time-tested and well-proven.
Find a good base is not as easy as it seems – most modern mechanisms have technical problems, while the two – superreliable.
Own basic mechanisms we do not, because I do not want to reinvent the wheel.
It’s just pointless.
We come up with the complexity – that will go to the wheel.
– Tell me the difference between the new UR UR 202 from 201.
– Firstly, the case has become a half a millimeter long, which, however, is almost negligible.
The index of lunar phases change the design-time indicator of the day.
Major changes can be seen on the back side, wherein there are two turbine governing the automatic winding system.
The turbines rotate six times faster than the rotor and create a kind of air cushion.
In the open position, the air circulates freely in the chambers, but if they partially overlap, the pressure inside the enclosure is created, retarding rotation of the rotor.
This system reduces wear on the rotor and protects it from damage during sharp movements and shocks.
If you close all turbine, the rotor is blocked, and the clock can start manually.
Decided to do, say, boxing – off self-winding, and did not suffer except your nose (laughs).
It’s like a modern car with a hybrid transmission.
You choose between automatic and manual control, depending on road and weather conditions.
– Who is the author of this crazy idea? – I and our technician Dominique Buza.
Granted, it’s kind of crazy, but we watchmakers, and the ability to look beyond the boundaries of reality helps us to do.
And it will tell you on the big secret, just the beginning.
I decided to closely examine the possibility of using air streams in watchmaking.
Here it can be seen an interesting prospect.
– If not a secret that you suggested an idea to equip the turbine rotor? How such a thing could come to mind? – Something like that long ago used the repeater design.
At the end of the bell there stands a small turbine – the so-called regulateur centrifuge, which stabilizes the gong and ensures even strokes.
Here, this control and was the starting point.
– I take it the next step in the chronometric turbirovanie has been kept secret, and ask you about it does not make sense? – It’s too early to say.
Hold on, all he will see when the time comes.
– Then change the subject.
Tell me which brands you would single out as the most interesting from the point of view of a practicing watchmaker? – From big brands I like A.
Lange & Sohne, from chamber music – Richard Mille.
Richard trendmeyker real, even though not a watchmaker.
– What about independent artists like Robert Grebel and Stephen Forsey? – We are with them are very similar: they operate in the same market segment that we have about the same circulation, and, in addition, we are constantly exchanging information.
I did not call them because they are part of my world, and I can hardly think of them as some kind of a separate self-education.
– What do you think of Basel and Geneva sensation, the tendency of refusal from the usual shooter? – First of all, in my opinion, all the unusual offer from the brands that specialize in standard hours, there is nothing more than an attempt to play on a foreign field.
They see the success of the leaders of the new wave and want them to sit down, to bask in the glory.
Although they glory already enough.
I do not presume to judge them – business is business.
Personally, I’m interested in some of these concepts in terms of their reasonableness.
And I’m curious how they will prove themselves in practice.
As for the possible failure of the arrows, then I’m sure that will not happen.
Classic arrow will not disappear simply because the better they did can not be.
But experiments with alternative indicators also do not stop: the search for new laid in human nature.
Understand Urwerk we do not want to be better for something or someone – we just fantasize, offer people a look at the art of watchmaking.
And if someone likes, we are happy to .
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