Vetrov Quercize: .
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– Mr.
de Quercize, Russia Van Cleef & Arpels is perceived more as a jewelry brand, and not as a sentry.
How this perception corresponds to the real state of affairs? – I think it’s still a little bit wrong.
Indeed, the house was built in 1906 as a jeweler, but first watch appeared in his collection already in 1908 – just two years later.
You’re right that priority still remains jewelry for us.
But now we try to pay a lot of attention and the clock – in 2007 we updated up to 80 percent of the entire watch collection! We collaborate with the best designers and artists, and the source of our – and their – inspiration are nature and high fashion.
We have a very recognizable design, and we will continue to choose the best stones.
– What exactly do you intend to strengthen the watch company segment? – Strengthen going rather artistic component watch collection.
Actually, what we are doing the last hundred years almost.
In addition to the radical renewal of the model range, which I said above, we are developing launched in 2006 a series of so-called poetic complications – such as for example the annual seasonal or retrograde calendar in the form of fairy wings.
– How long have you head VC & A? – Two years.
I came here from Cartier, where he was first president of the French representation of the company, and then – the North American.
– What did you do first of all, when we got to the presidency? – more emphasis on creativity.
For example, for the centennial of the House, we have prepared just three jewelery collections – a lot.
The same with the clock: we try to be more creative, to translate everything, even the seemingly insane fantasies.
– With respect to the clock: you talk about creativity in design or mechanics? – Here and there.
We want to help people enjoy life.
Creativity generates emotion, regardless of whether, it is visible on the dial or concealed inside the body.
When you look at your watch, do not you think about how accurately they show the time and whether they show the time in general – do you assess their appearance and if you consider yourself an expert, trying to understand what they set mechanism.
And then your thoughts are gradually moving to the eternal themes like how momentary life, it is important to enjoy every single day, and how relative the concept of eternity.
So emotions are born.
Our tourbillon – is both a complex mechanism, and a work of art.
– Why did you decide to start making watches with complications? Why even jewelry technical delights? -Van Cleef & Arpels launched the first watch with a retrograde hands in 1927.
This year we have prepared their modernized version of a fairy.
As for the grandes complications like the tourbillon, it is our first appeared nearly four years ago, and I can say that it is just a very nice and refined essence of emotion.
– Perpetual Calendar and repeaters are not going to produce? Maybe it is something done for the 100th anniversary of the presence in the watch business? – We are still not technically oriented company to have an artistic performance is much more important than engineering.
But we have something hidden away in the sleeve – this year you are required to learn about it.
– What is the ratio of jewelery and watch products in VC & A portfolio? – Local production of jewelry is growing more rapidly, because this segment has traditionally lagged far behind.
Accordingly, today we are investing heavily in it.
Ideally, we would like to achieve a ratio of 60 to 40.
In this case, it is important to stay as recognizable and not to lose face.
It is, believe me, is not easy.
It is also difficult to create highly watch that would remain relevant and in 20-30 years.
– Who are your main competitors? – Competitors? We work with unique products, and we talk about competitors – is like to compare who is better painted Van Gogh and Raphael.
Everything is very individual, so I’ll tell you that rivals Van Cleef & Arpels not.
– Whose mechanisms you use in your watch? – gauges Jaeger-LeCoultre 849 and retrograde modules Ajenhor, designed specifically for us.
They move very slowly, and this is their advantage over similar products.
For example, in the Lady Arpels Feerie model one wing fairy shows a clock, and the second – a minute.
Dial – enamel guilloche background which creates the effect of flying fairy figurines.
Creator Fairy Olivier Vaucher – acknowledged master of the dial decoration.
We had a long and closely co-operate, he is a great artist who works in various media – from enamels to marquetry.
Tourbillon dials – also his handiwork.
And he, by the way, is the author of mask collection Vacheron Constantin Metiers d`Art.
Like him, only a few people in the watch business.
Tourbillons do for us in the Piaget manufactory in La Côte-Fe.
This is one of the thinnest tourbillon loose in the world just 3.
5mm thick.
This feature opens up our designers opportunities for its fitting into the dial and case.
In general, one of these watches, the company employs nearly 200 people in a few months! It’s really an art form.
– Are you going to focus on a more casual are more affordable models like Mr.
Arpels or Alhambra? – We have always paid and continue to pay attention to this series and will continue to produce them, regardless of the volume of production pieces unique.
– Thank you for the informative interview.
Good luck to you.
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