Hey welcome! If you are wondering how a watch repair kit has to be in this article we are going to explain and suggest to you every sigle piece you should consider to have, why you need it and eventually how to use it.
Now, let’s start from the beginning. How does a watch repair kit look like? No complicated staff. Here is a picture of a professional watchmaker showing them off in his working desk:
Before digging into the topic subject, let us tell you couple important things:
- This articles contains affiliate links, please use them if you are considering purchase something. Everything we’ve chosen has been tested and accurately evaluated by us: let’s be win-win on this;
- At the end of the article we decided you put a complete watch repair kit 18 in one, so just in case you do not want to lose time in buying every single piece, with that you make sure you can start work tomorrow with no stress.
This is needed watch repair kit in order to disassemble a simple clock/watch:
Arrow Removal Tool
Bergeon Watch Hand Remover Tool Presto 30636-1
strongly advise against buying a Chinese copy of this tool.
I took. threw away. now American.
bergeon, k & d, etc. (i.e. take the production of countries – Germany, Switzerland, the USA).
Personally, I have such, and I use them most often.
Mine are made by ZIM.
This is probably the best option for a beginner.
in the form of tweezers with a groove to “pry” the arrows without squeezing or deforming them.
in addition, I would like to add that when removing the arrows, alwaysyou need to protect the dial, for example, you can use this thing:
although personally I have a pack of tissue paper, but not a rough one, from which particles are poured, but polished smooth. I cut it into squares slightly smaller than the dial, and make a cut from the middle.
to get started, you can have a set of 0.6mm, 0.7mm, 0.9mm or 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.6mm. however, it should be borne in mind that different calibers require different sharpening of screwdrivers.
Thus, an attempt to unscrew the screws on the Japanese mechanism with the screwdriver with which you disassembled the ZIM, moreover, before the 70s, will lead to scratching of the mechanism and screws.
The reason is that the screw slots are of different widths.
Therefore, the master usually has several sets of screwdrivers for different calibers.
sharpening screwdrivers takes skill. professionals do this on special sharpening machines, where you can accurately set the angles and maintain the coaxiality of the sharpening planes.
it is important for a beginner to understand that it is too difficult to sharpen a screwdriver by hand on a block.
It is much easier for a price equal to two bottles of beer to purchase a sharpening machine of this type on an ebay or ali:
this device allows you to control the sharpening angle by pushing it forward, and simply by turning it to the other side, observe the alignment of the planes in order to get an even rectangle on the tip of the sting, and not a triangle …
do not take with a protruding screw, it will not allow you to turn over to the other side.
the best screwdrivers, according to many craftsmen, are obtained from the shanks of Soviet drills.
so you can get a set of collet screwdrivers and make spare blades for it for different types of screws.
over time, you will acquire several sets of screwdrivers for the specifics of the tasks.
look at the picture below, and it will become clear how to sharpen the screwdriver correctly so that it does not jump out of the slot. it should be a little “vsklin”.
Spring coilers (coilers)
winders (well, I like this word) are of different types, but the essence is the same: without touching the clean mainspring and without deforming it, wind it into a container with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the drum.
then transfer the spring to the drum, also without touching it.
I own the so-called universal LEVIN winders, in which it is possible to adjust the foot-limiters in the range for different drum diameters.
they are needed less, in my set there are 3 pieces. see the photo.
I also have a set of MARSHALL coilers for different drum sizes with a fixed width, in a purple pvc box. quite comfortable if the drum fits.
The issue price is 25-48 US dollars. the first set (universal) can be purchased one at a time. will come out even cheaper.
if you shake your hands. of course, many do so. but this does not mean at all that this is also possible. it is impossible . pieces of skin and fat from the fingers begin the corrosion process of the spring itself, in addition, with such a winding, it deforms, loses the plane of the turns and they begin to cut off the brass from the drum and its lid. Every time I take out a spring, I put it on a flat surface and see if it is in a plane?
If not, they shook their hands – I look inside the drum – and it is, tears and scratches. the nickel-plating layer is peeled off, the uneven surface of the brass is visible.
you can of course do it yourself. but for the price even for the Swiss Bergeon of 300 rubles, I think it is better to buy. for a start, you can get by with two – red and blue. a set of 4 pieces will cost 730 rubles. I recommend buying a triple oil can as the minimum allowable, it costs 150 rubles.
Look for “bergeon watch oiler” on Ali or ebay, all of the above is available and
there are also automatic oil dosing on cousinsUK.com, but I think this is too much for a beginner or an amateur.
they clean the oil dosage by sticking it into the core of the elderberry – seen in the second photo. it can be purchased on request “PITH WOOD”.
somewhere there was a topic, they made butter dosing from a ballpoint pen rod, who will see, post a link, I will post it here for general development.
it is quite clear that when working with a mechanism, something must be securely fixed, hands must be free to perform operations. Sometimes three hands are needed, which is really there.
there are universal and special (made for a specific family of mechanisms) holders (stands). for example, for Vostok 2403, a universal mechanism holder is suitable. but for Vostok 2416 with a central second hand, a special holder is already needed, which can fix the spring of the second tribe. And in some cases, you can simply squeeze out the stone of the wheel, installing a minute tribe, etc. It is clear that you can contrive and plant an arrow or tribe “somehow”. this is for an example to make it clear.
for example, here is the special chronograph holder for caliber 7750:
an inexpensive Swiss stand from A * F for the same movement (something like $ 50):
and here is the same, but from the famous Bergeon (the price is indecent):
Look for movement holder. Chinese are cheap, sold as a pair “for large and small calibers” (US $ 3.5)
and I have these, left over from what I bought at the beginning. but they have significant drawbacks, the metal from which they are made – silumin, a high probability of the mechanism slipping out during assembly. you can remove the sides, make them in the image and likeness of brass, for example, then nickel. if there is such a desire.
Horotec holder will cost more ($ 60)
but Bergeon – also for the price, but I think they are OK with the quality:
here is the vintage Vigor:
in addition, there are other types of mechanism holders, for example, made of wood or pvc in the form of rings:
It is so inconvenient to work without a device, even for an amateur, that it complicates not only the diagnosis of the watch mechanism, but also the impossibility of setting the basic parameters normally: the pumping error and the stroke itself.
in addition, using the diagrams that you see on the device, you can determine the cause of the malfunction or the direction in which you need to look for it.
for a beginner, the best option in terms of price / quality is the Timegrapher 1000 (cost about 8-9 tr.), there is a good domestic device – Analog Master , and for those who are not constrained in funds (not at all constrained) – the Swiss device Witschi .
Watch repair tool kit (18 pieces)
Any wristwatch, both branded and cheap Chinese, after purchase, as a rule, needs to be adjusted to fit the arm. Also, during operation, it may be necessary to change or repair the bracelet or open the case (for example, to change the battery or adjust the accuracy). Earlier, to fit the bracelet, I wore a watch to the master, but after a case when one, with permission to say “specialist”, split a ceramic bracelet for me, I decided to learn how to do these operations on my own, for which this set of specialized tools was ordered.
The set came packaged in a transparent plastic mold, fastened with a stapler and tape. The form is rather transportable. I think it will be inconvenient to store tools in it. A total of 18 items in the set. 1) Link remover, 2) Tweezers, 3) Clock hammer, 4) Bracelet fixation stand, 5) Hourly magnifier, 6) 2-point screw cap opener, 7) Short hairpin, 8) Long hairpin, 9) Clock knife (for opening clapper caps), 10) Pliers, 11) Pin beaters of different diameters (3 pcs. 0.7, 0.8, 1.0 mm.), 12) Nippers, 13) Flat watch screwdrivers (3 pcs.), 14) Phillips screwdriver …
The workmanship of the instrument is mediocre. The metal surfaces of the pliers and wire cutters are poorly finished. The frame of the watch magnifier has burrs, the lens is loose. The rest of the instruments had no visible flaws, but they did not leave the feeling of good quality either. Therefore, it was decided to test the suitability of the tools on the example of the most common operations on watches, namely, removing the links of the bracelet, removing and installing the bracelet, opening the back screw cover of the watch to adjust the accuracy. If they fulfill their purpose, then the set can be considered suitable.
Removing links from the bracelet
The wrists of different people have different widths, respectively, the watch bracelets are made as wide as possible, because the bracelet can be shortened, but cannot be expanded. The links on the bracelet can be of different sizes, but the ones that can be removed are usually the same. These links are located closer to the bracelet lock. The links are fastened together with the help of pins. To remove the link, the pin must be removed. The links that can be removed are marked with arrows indicating in which direction the pin should be removed.
To remove the pin, fix the bracelet in the link puller so that the pin is opposite the retractable needle, and the arrow on the link corresponds to the direction of the needle. Slowly rotating the handle, extrude the pin as far as possible.
A hole of sufficient depth was formed in the seat of the pin to accommodate the knockout. Move the bracelet to the stand so that the pin hits one of the holes. Now, with the help of a beater and a watch hammer, release the link from the pin. If the pin does not come out completely, we will take it out with pliers, because now we have enough space to catch on to it. After removing unnecessary links, we will assemble the bracelet. To do this, fix it in the holder and hammer the pin back with a hammer.
Removing and installing the bracelet
Changing the bracelet is a fairly common operation on a watch. After all, an old bracelet can break or get bored.
The bracelet is attached to the watch with studs. The ends of the pins are movable and in the free state are fixed in the “ears” of the watch. The stud stripper is a screwdriver, the sting of which is made in the form of a fork, with which you can press the edge of the stud, catching on special grooves. Thus, you can open or close the hairpin, and therefore remove or install the bracelet.
Opening the back screw cover of the watch
The back covers of the watches can be fastened with bolts, simply “slammed” or screwed down. In the first case, a small Phillips screwdriver is used to open the cover. In the second, there is a watch knife used to pry off the lid. To open the screw cover, you need a special tool that can grasp the grooves. Such a tool is three-point and two-point. A professional tool is usually three-point and has a replaceable set of cue balls for different types of grooves (up to 18 pieces).
This set contains a simpler, two-point tool. There is only one cue ball set, but it fits most of the screw caps of Chinese watches.
To open the cover, one of the tool hooks is inserted into a groove on one side of the watch, and the other into a groove on the opposite side. Then the tool must be tightly fixed in the grooves, for which the distance between the hooks must be adjusted using the wheel on top. The tool is locked, the cover is unscrewed. Now we can get down to what it was done for. For example, by adjusting the thermometer of the clock. As you can see, you can do basic operations on a watch using these tools.
“Chinese set of tools for Chinese watches” – in my opinion, this phrase most succinctly characterizes this set. The tools are flimsy and not suitable for professional use. On the other hand, if you have a fleet of Chinese watches, you can use this set to adjust them without spending money on the services of a watchmaker commensurate with the cost of the watch itself.
I also want to note some redundancy of the set. So the wire cutters and the second stud puller are not needed for the operations described above. There is a simplified version of the set without them. It costs naturally also cheaper.
The toolbox was submitted for review by the online store chinabuye.com