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– Tell me, Guillaume, it’s true that you and Renaud de Retz founded Hautlence nothing better to do? – Literally.
We both worked at LVMH: Renault engaged in marketing and commerce (he was behind experience in the Jaeger-LeCoultre), and I was responsible for the computer-aided design and new developments in the Tag Heuer (which came from Rolex).
After work, we sometimes found in drinking establishments and discussed plans for the future.
Not that we are very fond of a drink or talk, but the alternative to such a peaceful pastime Neuchâtel was not simple.
In the course of a long evening conversations we found out that both are hungry for innovation.
All around and only engaged in that modified the old gauges, adorned with precious stones and enclosures announced the resulting Premiere of the Year.
When this mechanism is used the most ordinary, serial ETA .
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And we wanted unusual! For fun, we decided to come up with something of such things – not revolutionary, because of the revolution, then no one even dreamed of – and distracting from the overall series.
Since we really get classic trehstrelochnye dials, we set out to do some animated mechanism to work which it would be interesting to watch.
After a few weeks, the exchange of ideas, we came to the conclusion that you can create a designer brand based on existing developments.
No sooner said than done.
We find investors, watchmakers – and off they’d go.
– That is, all the same have started to search for the necessary expertise? – This was the second step after the final polishing HL collection concept.
A next step that we need to do, will purchase CNC-machines for the production of certain components.
The first CNC-machine received in May {interviews took place in April – AV) – it will speed up the research and test process.
And, believe me, we will definitely buy it, not in order to be proud to be called manufactory in press releases.
– They say, bad soldier who does not dream of becoming a general .
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– general can become in its market segment.
We, with our annual editions of 200-300 copies, much closer to the image of the Chamber’s workshop than a large production, and we will stick to the chosen path in the future.
In addition, it is easier to store and cultivate tradition.
– Name Hautlence, as I understand it, too, speaks of your commitment to traditions? – Sure.
Is an anagram of the word Neuchâtel – the city’s name, which is one of the historic centers of Swiss watchmaking.
As logo we chose the Mobius strip (the very flourish – AV), which is also similar to the symbol of infinity.
Although the circulation of our very finite: in his debut series HL we have a total of 8 versions, each with 88 pieces.
– What mechanisms are using? – We take only the standard wheel transmission from Peseux 7001 (but soon they will be doing yourself), everything else is made of our partners for us.
Plates and bridges made Tschumy & Barben from La Chaux-de-Fonds and decoration (perlage, Cotes de Geneve and so on) – Labarga of Fleury.
Housings get from Gullod Gunther, who also worked with Rolex.
Well, the list goes on – all we have 45 suppliers.
We did not order the whole mechanisms BNB or Vaucher, as is customary, and all come up with yourself, and then pick the best in the country.
We are engaged in the creation of every detail and control the process inside and out.
In which case we can always tell exactly at what stage, and exactly who made a mistake.
By the way, in a mechanism that we’re going to put in the following collections are likely to be used interchangeable escapement designed to H.
Moser & Cie «Academician by Andreas Strehler.
The issue is not yet resolved, but the probability is very high.
And mind you, despite the rather unusual view of our watches, they are the flesh of Craft classic.
We came up with the concept of the avant-garde, but its execution is carried out in compliance with all written and unwritten rules of the industry.
Take the same pattern Cotes de Geneve, which we decorate plates and bridges, or overhead hour markers on the sapphire dial, which could well be replaced by a draw.
These little things can tell a lot about their creators.
– Do not plan in the near future be integrated into the descent one-another part of the now fashionable silicon? – Not.
While silicon do just dials for LIGA technology Memotec – the birthplace of Ulysse Nardin.
Our watchmaker, incidentally, worked with Ludwig Oyshlinom over Freak .
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Unfortunately, we are not so wealthy to afford the slopes of silicon.
The desire, of course, there is, but if we do not take into account the financial side of the matter, the inclusion of parts of the mechanism of brittle material requires revision of the whole mechanism.
We are moving consistently.
We began with an unusual indicator system operating from the traditional mechanism, and gradually cultivate.
When anything unusual in our local time is everything.
The main thing – patience.
Today, the main task – to make watches even better.
This, of course, will cause price increases, but the independence and quality of no price.
They are priceless.
– Turnout Systems Hautlence resembles wheel cranks the engine.
It’s just a coincidence? – Well, we do not write off the design with the engine, if you are about it.
But there are similarities, it’s true.
Such forward locomotive, pure mechanical movement without extraneous impurities.
Arrows – continuation mechanism which, in general, and defines the outer appearance of the watch.
Function dictates form – it’s about us.
– How many collections today have Hautlence? – Three.
HL, HLs and new HLq.
In HLs we strengthened sport start due to large labels, index window for changing the jumping hour and case design as a whole.
It is more ergonomic and is a completely new product, but with the same pioneering spirit.
On demand are jewelry versions in cases of combinations of different metals.
In HLq we have departed from the canonical forms Hautlence involved and round case.
And all the mechanism, which became so due to the integrated disc date indicator (function determines the shape!).
To free up additional space for the index, it had a little bit to change the whole layout of the dial.
If the first two series of retrograde minute scale pointer sector is equal to 120 °, then it is increased to 180 °.
Also add a button to quickly adjust the date.
This is a universal model that fits, including people who do not recognize any other buildings, except for the round.
Still, a form of TV screen specific enough and not everyone likes.
– Whom do you think the competition-minded? – I think there is now a total of about five brands operating in the same revolutionary vein as Hautlence.
First of all, it Urwerk.
This icon of modern chasostroeniya, a real monster, which is an example for us in every way.
In fact, we follow them with a lag of a few years – but Baumgartner little easier, because it is a watchmaker and can quickly implement their ideas.
Also interesting things to do MB & F, and, of course, do not forget Richard Mille, opened a new high-tekovskoe direction of watchmaking.
– How often do you plan to release a new collection? There are some graphics that you try to stick to? – The first collection appeared in 2005, the second – with a slight delay in 2007, the third – in 2008.
Ideally, we should update the range annually.
It is difficult, but if we do not have enough creative, it will not stay in the chosen market segment.
The alternative will release models with standard purchase-arrangements with a broad advertising campaign, which is contrary to the original idea.
– Why do not you write a traditional Swiss made on the dial? – Because this label does not mean anything.
It is possible to manufacture all parts in China, to assemble them in Switzerland – and here you have a real» Swiss made.
We write Horlogerie Swisse, since the wording more accurately reflects the nature of the product.
100 percent of all the components manufactured in Switzerland, and 80 – directly in Neuchatel.
– How are things going at Hautlence in Russia? – Okay.
And, as far as I know, the majority of hours are purchased Russian abroad – from Turkey to Courchevel.
I can not say how many otlensov are owned by Russian, but I admit that every third instance.
Some like the unusual complex mechanics, someone – exclusivity.
And so, naturally, we want to strengthen the position of your country .
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